San Francisco

Around rocky edges like Lands End and the Sutro Baths area, the tide decides what you can reach. A low tide shows more of the shoreline, and a rising tide can cut off access fast. Ocean Beach and the other open stretches get strong surf, rip currents and the odd sneaker wave, so stay well back when it looks rough. Check the San Francisco tide station before a long beach walk or a sunset near the rocks.

San Francisco runs on microclimates. One neighborhood can be sunny while the next sits in fog, and a short walk takes you from downtown to sea cliffs. For a big city the coast is rough and open: steep headlands, wind-bent cypress, long views across the Golden Gate.

Short on time? Spend the first day on the waterfront near the Golden Gate. Start with Crissy Field for a flat walk along the bay with the bridge in front of you, then the Presidio for trails and overlooks. Then go west to Lands End for the coastal trail, which ends near the Sutro Baths ruins and the cliff viewpoints. For a view over the whole city, Twin Peaks is a quick stop (go on a clear day). Coit Tower and North Beach show you an older San Francisco.

Beaches, viewpoints and waterfront stops:

• Baker Beach - the Golden Gate from the sand, with surf in the foreground.
• Ocean Beach - wide, often foggy, with heavy surf; a long walk at sunset (swim with caution).
• China Beach - a small, quiet cove near the Presidio.
• Crissy Field - flat ground for a walk, a picnic or watching the kites, with the bridge straight ahead.
• Lands End & Sutro Baths - cliff trails above the old bath ruins; go in the last hour before sunset.
• Fort Funston - windy bluffs above the ocean.
• Ferry Building - a market hall on the bay for coffee and local food.

Spend a few hours in Golden Gate Park - it's huge, and even a short visit takes in gardens, lakes and paths under the trees. Then pick a neighborhood: Haight-Ashbury for vintage shops, the Mission for murals and food, or North Beach for cafes and a walk up to Washington Square. For the standard tourist loop, add Fisherman's Wharf and Pier 39 for the sea lions, then get back to the quieter shoreline trails.